So I made a plan to put all of the parts on in a systematic and orderly fashion. I promptly disregarded said plans and just picked whatever felt “right”.
The dimples are very helpful and mostly right, however, a lot for the major assembly brackets are off by a smidge. It’s easy enough to place the brackets and mark with a pencil to see if you need to compensate for any smidges.
I’ve installed the legs and the rest of the easy cabinet pieces I have currently. I got the legs, coin door and a dmd from a local guy exiting the hobby. Buttons and other hardware were purchased from the usual suspects.
I really dislike scrubbing rust off of old legs. I considered buying stuff like evapo-rust to try, but decided to use what I had-brasso, scotch brite pad and the old legs. I’d rather buy new legs than spend nearly as much on cleaning chemicals.
Finished applying all of the decals. The coin door side took the longest to line up and even then it’s not perfect. The Lightning behind the launch button is a bit off center, but the shield/start button look good. I couldn’t resist starting to attach everything I had. Take a look:
I received the decals ordered from Marco. They looked good and smelled good too…to clarify they smelled the good like new paper and not the good like gasoline.
Never having done this before, I started with the back box decals. They’re smaller and require less precision than the front coin door decal. I used the dry method–straight decal to wood. The essential tools were a fresh razor, flexible plastic tool for pushing out air bubbles, long metal straight edge, and some heavy weights.
Here’s an outline of my approach:
Step 1. Line up the decal and place a heavy weight on one half.
Step 2. Peel off the backing and have an assistant hold the decal taut. Cut the backing paper and remove up to where the weight is holding down the decal.
Step 3. Use a flexible plastic to gradually push down the decal as flat as possible. Push out any bubbles.
Step 4. Remove the weight. Hold the corners taut. Remove backing. Use flexi-plastic to push down decal gradually from the middle outward.
Step 5. Hold the metal straight edge about 1-2 mm in from the cab edge. Cut away excess decal along straight edge.
I’m happy with the results so far. The best advice is to have two people. It would be much harder solo. Thanks wife for the help!
Over the weekend I was able to make good progress on prepping the cab for decals. I borrowed an orbital sander–I can’t imagine doing this by hand.
The sander made quick work of removing any leftover glue residue and smoothing out the surface. I used a 220 grit sandpaper.
I also picked up a rattle can of Satin black Rustoleum paint. I decided to follow a YouTube tutorial on can prep and decal work link. So I painted the cab edges for where the decals will be cut away slightly. The idea is that it will make those corners look good where the decal doesn’t cover in the end.
I also took the opportunity to paint other parts, like the back of the lower cab, the top and back of the head, and the inside left and right that had been scratched up from raising and lowering the playfield. In all I used 1.5 cans of the stuff. I also used the sander to clean up the inside bottom and underside. Why wipe away the dirt when you can just sand it away?
The cab is ready to leave the garage and go to the basement, except I noticed the front left side wood joint is coming apart. I’ll glue and use the ratchet straps before calling it done.
I have to say that I’m feeling pretty satisfied, I didn’t screw up anything. Well screw up beyond my ability to fix it. I did some things out of impatience that resulted in repeating them, but whatever it still feels like a win.
I finished peeling the rest of the decals on the cab. I purchased a bottle of Goof Off to use on the adhesive left behind. I did the back box first and it seemed to take a lot of the stuff. However, it clumped and gelled up nicely and came off super easy with a razor blade. I’ll spare you the picture and make you imagine but it looked like big piles of snot.
For the lower cab, I evolved my technique, see the gallery above. After removing, the decal I went over with the heat gun and scraper a second time to remove as much sticky glue as possible.
I picked up a $15 heat gun for removing the old decals. I wasn’t sure what to expect never having used one before. I’m happy to report that the heat gun makes the job a piece of cake.
My technique was to point the hot air just in front of the scraper. Most of the time the decal would come off in long strips. It was a pretty satisfying experience. I even got the wife to give it a go.
The “not so fun” part is removing the adhesive left behind. More about that in the next post. After two evenings of work there is only one side left to do.
I had some luck in acquiring an empty cabinet. A fellow in AZ posted an empty Monster Bash cabinet on Craigslist for $150. So after a quick 20 hour round-trip drive, I’ve got the perfect base for the new Medieval Madness.
Oh, and to follow up on the last post. If you guessed Medieval Madness, you’re correct. This will be the machine that consumes my hobby hours for the foreseeable future.
The blog that is… After a long hiatus and never updating the location info on this site. I decided to re-vamp it to be mainly be a blog for my pinball adventures and repairs. As it stands we have 6 games in the home collection: LotR, AFM, TZ, WH2O, T2, and JY.
There’s another game in the works, but instead of buying it out right for some reason I decided to have it mailed to my house piece by piece. Quickly, I’m realizing it’s going to be more work and expense than I originally assumed. Here’s a hint: (an obvious one)
So anyways, bare with me as this evolves. For now, I’ve kept the old posts active, reading just a few I’ve noticed how different my perspective is on this hobby. I’ll probably start deleting the old posts and pages very soon, especially the lame ones. Bye for now.